Wallpaper Tips & Tricks That Actually Save You Time (and Rolls)

You’ve probably already watched a few YouTube videos on hanging wallpaper, and now, it seems like a simple task. Unfortunately, it may turn out to be the opposite. That’s why we’ve put together this guide with tips we’ve developed while working on hundreds of projects. Here, you’ll learn our hanging wallpaper tips about what you need to check before buying, how to calculate the number of wallpaper rolls, which surfaces need additional preparation, and the small details that will save you hours of work and plenty of material.

Before You Buy Rolls

So, let’s find out where to start. Before buying wallpaper and paste, you’ll first need to measure the height and perimeter of the walls, take photos of them both in daylight and artificial light, and check for uneven surfaces and any remnants of old finishes. Here are a few more important aspects that you’ll need to figure out:

• When to choose vinyl vs. non-woven (wet areas, kids, and pets). Vinyl wallpapers are resistant to mechanical damage; they’re also easy to clean, don’t change color from splashes, and are generally suitable for the kitchen, hallway, and children’s rooms. However, if contact with water is planned regularly, it’s better to choose vinyl wallpaper marked “washable/moisture-resistant” from the very beginning. As for non-woven wallpapers, they are more convenient in terms of installation and fit perfectly on walls with strong unevenness. Seams line up more easily too, and removing them later is simpler.
• How pattern repeat and offset affect how well seams are hidden. The larger the rapport (i.e., the distance to the pattern repeat), the more waste there will be when matching the wallpaper sheets, since a large pattern may require trimming each strip to match the fragments. An offset pattern makes cutting wallpaper trickier and increases waste. That’s why it’s so important to determine the rapport size from the manufacturer in advance, as it can reach 20-25%.
• How much to buy: wall area + 10-15% for matching – and why getting the exact same run/lot later isn’t always realistic. A simplified formula looks like this: total wall area plus 10-25% for matching, defects, and reserve. However, with a large rapport, walls with niches, as well as a non-standard ceiling height, you’ll have to increase the reserve. Moreover, run/lot from many manufacturers may differ in tone, so if an ideal match in shade is crucial, it’s wiser to buy everything at once, marked as from the same batch.

3 Questions to Ask Yourself

Before we describe our tips for wallpapering, you should follow a quick questionnaire before starting work – it will help you choose the right material, as well as understand how to properly prepare the walls and how to cut the wallpaper sheets to minimize waste.

Where will the seams land, and what light hits them?

So, the first of our wallpapering tips for beginners is to look around the room with the artificial light on – this way, you’ll be able to accurately identify the flaws in the wall relief. It’s also worth noting that even a perfectly fitted seam will be more noticeable with side lighting, so you should plan their location next to doors or furniture – here, they will be less noticeable. As for objects with complex artificial lighting (for example, with spotlights), the seams haven’t fallen into the zone of their direct light.

How flat are the walls (be honest)?

Assessing the walls for flatness is often too optimistic, which ends up costing a lot when installing wallpaper. That’s why you have to check the walls with a long rail or level – a small bump of 2–3 mm isn’t usually critical, but a bow of 5–10 mm over a meter will need filling (either the entire surface, or locally, or with the installation of beacon strips).

Are you prepared to strip the old wallpaper down to the skim coat?

Sometimes people decide to install new wallpaper over the old one, which will lead to peeling in a couple of years or even earlier. Therefore, we strongly recommend removing the old coating down to the putty or primer – firstly, this way, you’ll be able to identify hidden defects and mold, and, secondly, maximize the paste adhesion.

Wall Prep – Boring, but It Works

As our experience shows, more than 80% of requests for alterations are related to poor preparation during independent wallpaper installation. Here are the specific wallpapering tips we mean.

Cleaning and degreasing

Before applying the primer, remove dust from the wall surface and degrease it (this is especially important in areas near kitchen surfaces and radiators). A simple soap solution often works, but a household degreaser (like one with ammonia) is even better – they will ensure better adhesion. It’s also essential to dry the surface before further processing and protect the places where the electrical wiring runs (it must be covered and de-energized).

Local spot-fixing of defects (not “by eye” – use a putty knife)

Small depressions, cracks, and bulges have to be filled with putty (you should apply it in 1-2 layers, allowing each layer to dry completely). After that, the surfaces need to be sanded with sandpaper. As for serious defects, they require preliminary use of a quick-hardening repair mixture and only then, finishing putty.

Primer/sizing: when it’s required and why you should never apply peel-and-stick over dust

The primer stabilizes the absorbency of the wall and maximizes the paste adhesion; however, you need to choose the right type for your wall. In particular, for porous old walls, it’s better to choose a deep-penetrating primer, while for already puttied and smooth ones, you should buy a universal acrylic one. Also, never apply self-adhesive wallpaper to a dusty or highly absorbent surface.

Layout: start from a perfectly plumb line

Before you start wallpapering a wall, you should use a perfectly positioned laser or plumb bob (although the latter doesn’t take into account the curves and waves of the wall along its length) – otherwise, your strips may start to ‘step’ as you go along. Also, you should mark a control line with chalk or pencil – this will help you navigate when laying out the first strip. For complex surfaces, it’s crucial to think through the order of the strips in advance – this way, you’ll hide even the most noticeable seams in areas with the least illumination.

Tools: What to Take – and What to Leave at The Store

To install wallpaper, you’ll definitely need to buy a plumb bob or laser level, a wide putty knife for smoothing, a sharp wallpaper knife with replaceable blades, a roller for seams, a container and brush for paste, and a clean cloth for removing excess. By the way, we noticed that those pricey plastic scrapers or all-in-one squeegees often work worse than the basic toolkit above – both in terms of ease of use and durability.

Cutting and Trimming without Surprises

If your knife blade tears the wallpaper instead of cutting smoothly, it needs to be replaced – generally, it’s best to use one blade for every 2-3 strips. As for fitting the wallpaper to the ceiling, baseboards, or windows, it’s best to do this with a metal ruler or putty knife, rather than trying to cut it while it’s hanging. It’s also best to leave an overlap when pasting – you can trim off the excess once the wallpaper is installed.

Ceiling and Baseboard

Even perfectly pasted wallpaper risks looking sloppy if it peels off at the edges or if you leave gaps. To avoid this, press the wallpaper sheet flush with the ceiling or molding and immediately trim with a sharp knife. It’s worth noting that the wallpaper should go behind the molding or baseboard by a couple of millimeters – this way, you’ll hide the seam due to the shadow they cast.

Outlets and Switches

Don’t forget to turn off the electricity before you begin your work. As for installing the wallpaper, this should be done over the outlet or switch. After that, you’ll need to make a cross-shaped cut, cut the triangles, and fold the edges under the frame.

Corners (Inside & Outside)

In this paragraph, we would like to consider several corners tips. Specifically, if we are talking about internal corners, the wallpaper sheets shouldn’t be pushed deep into the corner – instead, it’s better to overlap by 5-10 mm, then cut off the excess and smooth it (only the seam, not the entire sheet, using a roller). The new sheet has to be glued end-to-end over the cut edge. With external corners, the tips and tricks will be the same, but in this case, it’s especially important to press the edge well and work with a very sharp knife to ensure maximum evenness of the cut.

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Pasting Wallpaper Tips: Three Scenarios – and Where People Slip Up

There are three main types of wallpaper on the market. Although there is a universal rule for each of them – start with a perfectly vertical line, paste the wall without overlaps, and roll only the seam (not the entire sheet) – it’s still worth considering wallpaper hanging tips for each of these options separately as well.

Unpasted (classic)

In this case, the paste should be applied directly to the wallpaper sheet, observing the optimal imbibition time: if the glue for applying wallpaper hasn’t had time to soak in, the wallpaper sheet itself will stretch during installation, and vice versa, if you overexpose it, it risks drying out and losing adhesion. Also, don’t apply the paste to several strips at once – some will dry out prematurely, and the seams can start to lift.

Paste-the-wall (non-woven)

This method is faster to implement – according to it, the glue has to be applied directly to the wall, and the dry wallpaper sheet is applied on top. It’s extremely important to distribute the paste evenly, without gaps or drips (the easiest way to do this is with a roller). At the same time, don’t apply too thin a layer, because if you do, the seams will open up in a couple of days.

Peel-and-stick (removable)

This type of wallpaper requires a perfectly smooth and degreased surface, so even a small layer of dust or microcracks can cause it to peel off. Therefore, never use such wallpaper for old walls or correct the position of an already glued sheet.

Five Places Where Time Usually Gets Wasted

Now – a few words about the most resource-intensive processes:

• Large patterns entail a large consumption of wallpaper, which includes trimming for fitting;
• Textured walls without leveling with putty and primer require additional work with seams – otherwise they can quickly delaminate;
• Damp walls require the use of a specialized adhesive and sealing of edges;
• Work on areas behind radiators and trims needs pre-prepared templates (while fitting on site will take much more time);
• Installing wallpaper on the ceiling always requires at least two people and reliable scaffolding.

If Things Go Wrong: a Pocket Guide

Despite careful preparation for wallpaper installation, problems may still arise (even for first time wallpapering). In such a situation, the main thing is not to panic, as below, you’ll learn some wallpaper installation tips on how to fix these issues.

The seam opened up

If the seam has come apart after a few hours or days, the problem is most likely that the edges have dried out or the glue was not applied evenly enough. To fix the situation, carefully lift the edge with a thin putty knife, proceed with hanging paste on the wall wallpaper with a brush on both surfaces, and press it down firmly with a rubber roller. Don’t press too hard though, or you’ll squeeze the glue out. And yes, don’t add new glue on top of an already dried layer – it’s much more correct to wet the area, press it, and only then go over it with a roller.

Bubble won’t leave

Bubbles appear when air gets under the wallpaper sheet. While small bubbles disappear on their own as the glue dries, large ones need to be removed manually by making a neat cross-shaped cut with a sharp knife and applying a little glue inside with a thin brush. After that, you will simply need to smooth this part of the wallpaper from the center to the edges with a putty knife.

Pattern drifted

Patterns usually drift because of uneven walls or a bad starting line. If you discover this during the pasting process, it’s better to stop and change the line. If the problem is discovered later, it makes sense to use decorative elements: molding, strip, or something else. Ultimately, you can always re-glue the problem area.

White edges showing on dark wallpaper

On dark-toned wallpapers, the factory edge is sometimes visible. To remove it, you can paint these edges right before installing with a thin marker or a special wallpaper pencil in the same color. If the problem occurs after the wallpaper has been installed, try using a soft brush with pigment or acrylic paint. This should be done very carefully, without pressure, so that the paint doesn’t get on the wallpaper surface.

Waves appeared

Waves occur due to excess glue or an insufficiently smooth surface. Sometimes they disappear on their own after the glue has completely dried, but if the wallpaper has become deformed during this time, the only thing you can do is re-glue it. To avoid these problems, it’s better to prime and level the wall first, and also not to overuse the amount of glue and putty knife movements (especially when it comes to delicate materials such as silk, flock, etc.).

Frequently Asked Questions